March 23, 2009 - Agra

This morning we woke up with much anticipation for our visit to the Taj Mahal. Our personal tour guide for the day was a man by the name of Bobby. An interesting side note is that for the entire day as our guide he charged us 650 rupees. This equates to around 13 American dollars. I was more than a little blown away. In addition, we also visited a carpet making factory and observed this hand crafted art. The gentleman showing us around showed us a 10 foot by 12 foot carpet. The price was 1,800 U.S. dollars. He explained that it would take three people one year to make such a rug; and then another couple of months for trimming, cleaning and drying. Can you imagine working on something for a year in your meager hut on the outskirts of town, in the dirt, working your fingers numb and then that carpet is sold for $1,800? I didn’t dare ask what the workers were paid to create such an item – I am sure it was next to nothing.

Well back to the architecture. The Taj Mahal is truly amazing. The story goes that the Emperor’s wife had complications with the birth of her second daughter and while on her death bed she made her husband promise her three things. 1. Never marry again. 2. Make sure that their children were very well taken care of. 3. When she was dead that he would build the greatest monument ever constructed to her. He completed all three. The basic structure of the Taj Mahal took 7 years to construct and the white marble and detail work took an additional 15 years to complete; making the total construction time 22 years. In contrast to the poverty of the city and country this building is indeed one of the Seven Wonders of the World. A great architectural competition was instigated by the Emperor and an architect from Iran was chosen. Every part of the Taj was designed to have perfect symmetry and balance. The only part of the Taj that is not symmetrical is the placement of the tomb of the Emperor. His wife’s tomb is on the center line and his is adjacent to the west side of hers. Originally the Emperor had planned to build a black Taj Mahal across the river, but as construction began the Emperor’s son imprisoned his father and would not allow it to be built. The Emperor was kept in the Jasmine Tower at Agra Fort overlooking the Taj Mahal; only allowed to leave to visit the Taj to pay tribute to his wife. At the end of our tour my dad and I spent about an hour resting in the shade gazing up at the Taj. The structure is so simple yet the detailing is so complex.

After visiting the Agra Fort we traveled to the opposite side of the river so I could sketch. I forgot to mention that the security personnel would not allow me to bring my sketchbook into the Taj complex, so I was unable to sketch the Taj from the front. I guess in some way this was a good thing; without this restriction I probably wouldn’t have made it a point to go to the other side of the river to view the Taj. Once in position on the north side of the river I found a place to sit on a little piece of concrete. It started off as a comfortable spot but gradually over the next hour became a somewhat painful place to be sitting. I began twice sketching the Taj and it just was not coming out right. Finally I told myself to stop thinking and worrying about the sketch and to just draw! Slowly over the next hour the sketch began to come together. Often children would come up to talk and look at what I was doing. When I first began sketching in public places I would get nervous when people would look over my shoulder, but slowly I have learned to appreciate the attention.

March 22, 2009 - Fatehpur Sikri

At Fatehput Sikri, a few miles out of Agra, we purchased a simple cloth to offer in the temple. These cloths are then given to the poor in the village so they can make clothes for themselves. The ceremony consisted of presenting the cloth on what I would presume was some type of alter, and then scattering flower petals over the cloth. Over time layers upon layers of these cloths and petals are built up on the alter. Next a simple string was given to us to tie to the stone screens that surround the inner chamber of the temple. While tying the string to the screen we made a wish, the deepest desire of our hearts. It came with a 100 percent guarantee! I am hoping for big things! The surrounding walls of the main building at Fatehpur Sikri is lined with domed lanterns; creating a stunning architecture. I can only imagine what it would have looked like in its prime with the lanterns all glowing. The gate that I sketched is rumored to be the tallest gate in all of Asia; adding to the impressiveness and grandeur of Fatehpur Sikri. While sketching, a group of school students came over to see what I was doing and insisted on having each and every student’s picture taken with me and my father. Each boy would sit between my father and I; they would wrap their arms around us for the picture. It was entertaining and a bit funny to say the least.

While traveling the road between Fatehpur Sikri and Agra there were thousands upon thousands of Muslims walking toward Fatehpur Sikri. They were making their weekly trek to the Temple. You have to understand, this was not a one or two mile trek. This was a 15 to 20 mile journey from Agra. That type of devotion touched me. Not many people have that kind of devotion in the world these days. Little children were walking and women were carrying bags a top their heads and often with a baby in their arms. Walking and walking and walking. I had a gentlemen tell me the other day that the Muslims are fanatical; this may be true but this act of the journey to temple was respectable and inspirational.

March 21, 2009 - Alwar

Our family friend and taxi driver, Amerpal Toor, grew up in the city of Alwar so we decided to veer from the schedule and make a day trip to visit his town. On our way we stopped at a Hindu Temple way off of the beaten path. The people in the village were staring at us like they had never seen a white person before; maybe they hadn’t. The legend surround this temple site is that 200 years ago a giant man came to this place and gathered up three stones and tossed them to the ground. These stones fell and settled on each other creating a small mountain. He also stomped on the ground below the mountain which resulted in an indention that quickly filled with water and became the well for the local people. The temple is located at the top of the stacked rocks. We journeyed up the many steps to the top of the mountain. As we approached the top we removed our shoes and entered the temple to offer a monetary donation and received a small puffed rice snack in return from the local temple worker.

Tonight we had a famous snack from a street vender. It was a little hollowed out ball that was then dipped by hand into a round bowl filled with spicy water. I was told never to eat or drink anything from a street vender, but I didn’t want to offend Amerpal. I had two of the snacks and hoped the entire time I didn’t get sick from them. They actually didn’t taste too bad, besides a little spice they were actually quite bland. But I have found out it is not how things taste it is what they do to you afterwards. Luckily there were no ill effects.

As we were traveling through the streets we stopped by the home of a woman who had worked in Amerpal’s home when he was growing up; which wasn’t much of a home as you can imagine. The area reeked of urine and sewage. She was sitting on the ground, crippled by years of work. Her skin clung to her petite frame. She is 90 years old and she wore her years on her face and hands. Amerpal graciously hugged her and gave her some money. Her only son lay on his cot toward the back of an open area; his eyes glazed over and in a drunken stupor. Flies were buzzing around him like he was already dead; landing on his eyes and face. Words cannot even describe the conditions of this place.

March 20, 2009 - Jaipur

At the Amber Fort Palace I was able to ride an elephant. Of course it was a total tourist trap, but hey how often do you get to ride an elephant? The screen work at the palace was beautiful. From a small veranda you could see the old fort, Jaigarh Fort, up on the hill. I decided to take a few moments to sketch. An amazing thing happened; while I was sketching all the postcard and handcraft peddlers immediately stopped trying to get me to buy their stuff. Unfortunately for my father they were not so considerate. At many of the openings/archways to gathering areas I noticed small metal rings attached. I came to find out that large reed shades would be hung from those rings and covered with water, allowing for the natural breeze to pass through, cooling the interior space.

After the Amber Fort we visited Jantar Mantar. This outdoor observatory was filled with the most interesting devices for observing celestial bodies and telling time. Currently India runs by what is known as India Standard Time, but each city has its own local time. One instrument at Jantar Mantar used a triangular wall with a bisecting parabolic curve to tell the exact local time from the shadow that was created. The craftsmanship on the parabolic curves was incredible.

In the evening we decided to do some shopping; I only mention this because we went to some of the craziest places. Well maybe the places weren’t crazy but the journey to the places was. We would be walking through crowds of people and then all of a sudden make a turn into an alley just big enough to squeeze through and pop into some back alley shop filled with goods. The streets in the city are just filled with nooks and crannies every where. Without someone showing us the way we would never find such places. To say the least it was adventurous and very entertaining.

March 19, 2009 - Traveling to Jaipur

I woke early this morning to the sounds from the local Hindu Temple softly moving through the skies and my stomach telling me that it didn’t like me very much. Believe me, it is no fun being sick in India; especially when you have a full day of traveling. We traveled along some of the bumpiest roads I have ever been on and my stomach was churning; at times it was almost unbearable. I tried to sketch in the car to take my mind off my sickness but a lot of the time the roads were so rough that I couldn’t even scribble out a sketch.

Because of the amount of time spent traveling during our trip I have decided to sketch while in the car. This posses a couple of unique problems: 1. No road is very smooth here in India and 2. The scenes pass by so quickly that it becomes difficult to document what I see.

I have had to use a particular sketching style while traveling that takes advantage of the motion of the car and irregularities of the road. I have had to allow for the impurities of such a working environment to become part of the beauty of the sketch. Understanding the conditional context surrounding my sketching will allow a broader understanding and appreciation for what I have been creating. The sketches that I have produced provide a unique mapping of the landscape. Instead of understanding the landscape through a road map, topographic map, or other standardized mapping method these sketches provide a mapping unlike any other. I have seen the change from flat plains of wheat and brick yards to soft rolling hills and dry rocky mountains. Animals have changed as well; cattle to camels to monkeys and even to elephants; all of which are in the streets. The people have also changed. One man told me that every few kilometers the food, language, music and the people change; providing for a unique experience even if one does not travel far.

It has been a very different experience having to sketch virtually on the run. I have had to process information quickly and produce a mental image from which to sketch. I have found this fairly challenging. I have had to quickly deduct what is important from a scene and document the intent and my interpretation of what is being processed through my eyes. Although this is challenging I have found it very satisfying. Not only has it kept me mentally engaged but it has heightened my awareness. Capturing the essence of something is perhaps more important than creating an exact replication.

While visiting the city of Hansi I was able to take a motorcycle ride through the streets to the fort atop a small plateau on the edge of town. The experience was much different than in a car. We sped pass people and vehicles; coming within inches of what I am sure would have been a disastrous ending to my leisure ride. The fort’s main gate is an impressive monolithic mass that seems to slice into the hillside demonstrating its power and dominance in the landscape. The fort also contained a Muslim Temple and there was a lot of commotion happening around that site. The individuals whom we were visiting in the city (who where Hindi) would not even consider going close to the Muslim Temple and directed us to leave. I could feel the tension that exists between Muslims and Hindus in that very moment.

March 18, 2009 - Patran

Leaving Chandigarh, we traveled southward to the small town of Patran. During our journey our driver left the car for a few moments to conduct some business at a street shop. While we were parked a young child, holding her presumably younger sister, approached our car. She constantly tapped on our windows begging for help. Once again my heart broke for these children. Whenever we would make eye contact with the little one she would give us the most adorable smile, which made it even harder to bear. It is truely incredible the amount of poverty there is in this country.

Once were arrived in Patran we visited with the Toor family and spent the night on their 30 acre farm. This family really opened their home to us and we felt very welcome. They had donated 3 acres of land adjacent to their property for the construction of a new "Nanaksar Academy". Eager to show off their school, they took us on a tour. The school is one year old with an addition that is still being constructed and you could tell it was the pride of the community. It was interesting to see the craftsmanship and quality. Compared to what we are used to it felt old and very used. Beyond the concrete and plaster was something deeper though. There was a sense of achievement and accomplishment - knowing that their children would have a place to study and learn. This building lent itself to a spirit of entrepreneurship and investment in the future of their children and their community. I will never know just how much that school means to them but I know it goes deeper than words can tell. Later in the day, about 20 minutes before sunset one of the Toor sons asked me to sketch the school for them. I quickly grabbed my pens and sketchbook and down the road we went. Finding a somewhat appropriate ledge I sat down and frantically sketched. The evening light was quickly fading and music filled the air from the local Hindu Temple; providing the perfect backdrop. Insects and mosquitos were coming out in the cool air. (Later, I discovered that I have received many bites to the arms and legs while trying to draw the school.) It felt good to sketch and to be forced to sketch so quickly, with anxious observers peering over my shoulders. At one time I even needed the assistance of a flashlight to complete the drawing. That drawing is now on display in the school for all of the children to see. It is amazing the power of such a little sketch. I guess i take my meager ability to sketch for granted most of the time. It is just a drawing right? To some it is much more!

Perhaps professing through sketching is much more than a self gratifying act. it requires a selfless act and a deeply truthful expression. By giving my sketch away, never to see it again perhaps, I find that it means more to me. All I have is a simple photograph, taken in poor light, to remind me of that moment when on a cool evening a sketch became much more than a sketch, it became an extension of the school and what that school means to its community.

After my sketching was done we traveled a short distance to visit the local Temple. I approached with a deep respect and reverence to such a place. Music and singing had been filling the air of the village since 3am and would continue until 9pm, only to start over again in the morning. We washed, removed our socks and shoes, covered our heads and entered. Approaching the focal point of the Temple we put our hands together and knelt before the Hindu God after which we received a sugar gift from the Temple worker. The Toor family visit this Temple every day in the morning and evening. It is part of their daily ritual and an integral part of their lives, in fact you could say that it is central. In addition, located at the highest point of their home is another worship space, allowing for worship at any time.

March 17, 2009 - Chandigarh

The morning was spent at the Gandhi Bhawan observing and sketching. Founded as the Center for Gandhian Studies at Chandigarh University it is beautifully sited within the campus. The only down side was normally the building is surrounded on three sides with water but today the pool was dry – leaving it to feel heavier on the landscape than normal. The Gandhi Bhawan was designed by Pierre Jeanneret, cousin to Le Corbusier. Pierre also aided his cousin in the master planning of the city. The buildings unique angles and geometry provide a contrast to the regularity and rectilinear qualities of the city and University campus. As the sun beat down on the back of my neck I relaxed and sketched; occasionally having the curious passer-by.

Next we made our journey to the government buildings of Chandigarh. I had been looking forward to visiting these master works of Le Corbusier for quite some time and they were a big reason why I choose India for the Fellowship. However, because of the upcoming elections visits were heavily restricted. I was only able to visit the exterior courtyard of the High Court; and that came only with much pleading with the guards. However, I was not allowed to bring in my camera or my sketchbook. With our limited access I was able to see up close this building. Its craft was very reminiscent of the local workforce and the geometries were distinguishably modern and variations of the local vernacular. The use of a bris sole on the north face of the building I found to be very curious. There is no doubt that it added depth to an otherwise flat façade but not so much as a shading device. The fenestrations along the ramps seemed to soften the transitions and moved with the building, providing gentle angles and soft curves.

I am very disappointed in not being allowed to see the rest of the government buildings (ie. Secretariat and Assembly).

We visited the City Museum. The design of which was based off of a design by Le Corbusier of a museum in Zurich that was to house the personal painting, etc. of Le Corbusier. Now the City Museum serves as an architectural museum provided information on the planning and development of the city of Chandigarh. It is interesting to note that Le Corbusier was not the first choice to master plan the city. The American team of Albert Mayer and Matthew Nowicki were first commissioned to do the work. When Nowicki died tragicly in an airplane crash the government approached Le Corbusier to complete the work started by the American team. A lot of the original ideas of Mayer and Nowicki remained in the Corbusier plan.

“I am 77 years old, and my moral philosophy can be reduced to this: in life it is necessary above all to act, and by that I mean, to act in a spirit of modesty with exactitude, with precision. The only possible atmosphere in which to carry on creative work is one in which these qualities prevail: regularity, modesty, continuity, perseverance.” Le Corbusier