March 25, 2009 - Khajuraho

Of all the temple complexes in Khajuraho the western group of temples has to be the most impressive. The first temple was built as a tribute to the Moon God who had a forbidden love with a queen in the land. Over the next few decades several temples were erected as a symbol of power and gratitude to their gods. These temples are covered with figures of the human body. The most interesting being the Kama Sutra figures scattered throughout the facades. These figures were placed on the temples to provide the patrons the opportunity to admire and respect the human body, but not to linger or meditate on the images; otherwise they would be led to sinful paths of seduction and temptation. These greatest architects in the land were gathered to construct these temples and as their reward large tracks of land and precious things were given them. Over the years the people were conquered by invading armies. Slowly the temples fell into ruin. Even now this complex is nothing short of impressive. Each temple is placed on a pediment, often one pediment is shared by multiple temples. Each similar in their architecture but varying in detail and scale. Axial symmetry along the main stair and entry to each temple is maintained throughout. The mass and weight of the structures are contrasted by a band of recesses; proportionally slicing the building and adding an even stronger reading of depth to the architecture. You can’t help but be overwhelmed by the obvious complexity of the details, but standing back you can begin to understand the underlying structures, scale and proportions.

While visiting the temples a horrible storm swept in. It began with an extreme dust storm; we had to take cover in a temple and wait for it to pass. Having to remove our shoes before entering the temples I just hoped that my shoes would still be around and not carried off by the wind during the storm. Following the dust storm the rain came; slowly at first then gradually picking up. I tried feverishly to complete a sketch before it got too bad. My drawing still holds the rain watermarks and staining from the dirt. Some may think that those marks ruined the drawing, but I see them as a unique expression of the unpredictable; and forever when I look at the image I will remember the environmental conditions that surrounded that day.

In the evening we returned to the western temples for a “sound and light show”. It was amazing to observed the temples under dramatic lighting. The geometries read even stronger and more powerful. The event was narrated in English and boy was it bad. I had to laugh a few times at the over-the-top theatrical nature to it – by the way the British accents were horrible too.

Of course our journey back to the hotel was like a gauntlet of pushy store venders trying to get you to buy some little trinket or come into their store and purchase an item that you really don’t need anyway. As we approached the hotel our diver was sitting out front with a few people. He had been talking me up as this famous architect from the United States. Famous, now that is news to me. He had me get out my sketchbook that I have been keeping and showed every single page to those around. I got a kick out of it. I guess there really is power in being an architect! I have to admit, it was fun showing off my sketches. I guess Amerpal was so excited that he decided to get completely sloppy drunk that night. At dinner he could barely grab his food, it was really bad. I had to help him to his room where he decided to give me multiple large hugs and tried to wrestle me. Eventually I got him in his room. I just hope that he will be fine for our 15 hour drive to Delhi in the morning. I am not looking forward it.